The Evaluation of Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Fabrics Using the New Methods
In the present study, the new methods for the investigation of the yarn slippage at the sewn seams in woven fabrics and for the determination of the parameters of yarn pulling out from woven fabrics were suggested. The original test methods capable to imitate similar to the real clothing wearing conditions, to evaluate the influence of external friction, of deformation method and of the position of seam allowances in respect to stitching line on the yarn slippage parameters were designed. Applying the new method based on the yarn pulling out from woven fabric with sewn seam, the analysis of the friction that occurs between warps and wefts during their sliding was done. Consequently, the behavior of the sewn seams in woven fabrics was analyzed applying the linear regression model which describes the dependence between the parameters such as: yarn pull out force Fpull-out, yarn pull out displacement epull-out,the woven fabrics’ mechanical characteristics such as: bending rigidity in warp direction B1, fabric elongation in warp direction E100-1 and yarn slippage at sewn seam parameter (seam opening d). The created three-cluster model enabled to split the investigated woven fabrics into three statistically different groups.
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