The Influence of Technological Parameters on Quality of Fabric Assemble

  • Vaida DOBILAITĖ Kaunas University of Technology
  • Milda JUCIENĖ Kaunas University of Technology
  • Eglė MACKEVIČIENĖ Kaunas University of Technology
Keywords: fabric, seam, pucker


When garment details are assembled using thready joint method it is rather difficult to assure that aesthetical, exploitation and production requirements would be fulfilled. The aim of the research is to analyze the influence of technological parameters on puckering of fabric assemble. The same composition, warp/weft density and different weave fabrics were investigated. They were produced using computerized Jacquarg looms. The joints were prepared at different rotational frequency of a sewing machine main shaft, i.e. 200, 900, 1600 and 2300 min–1; stitch density also varied, i.e. 3, 4, 6 cm–1. The seam pucker magnitude has been determined by the method of the measurement of geometric characteristics of the wave generated in the specimen near the seam. It was obtained that in the case of ~80 % specimens the puckering coefficient was lower than 25 %, therefore the fabrics under investigation may be stated to have no significant puckering defect. Assembling of fabrics by a longer stitch determine a greater puckering effect. The analysis of the impact of fabric mechanical properties on the seam pucker has shown  that the greatest influence was made by fabric elongation E, %, relating it in a complex manner to the technological parameters.