The Diamond Twills in Lithuanian Folk-skirts

Abstract

The weave of woven fabric is one of the most important parameters of fabric structure, which determines fabric
properties. The Lithuanian folk woven fabrics have not been investigated before from the technological point of view,
but it is very important to do so today, when the current trend is to come back to natural, authentic fabrics. That’s why in
this article the weaves of Lithuanian folk skirt fabrics are analyzed with particular attention to the diamond twill weaved
fabrics. After investigating 257 Lithuanian skirts from National M. K. Čiurlionis Art Museum‘s Folk Art department‘s
textile collection, it was established that plain weave fabrics are the most widespread (55 %). In the second place (24 %)
are fabrics of different twill weaves. Diamond twills of various complexities make up the large part of them. At the time
of investigation the fabric weaves, their plans of weave with draft, succession of weft change and base weave were
analyzed.